Shoe Molding Corner Techniques

Getting clean, tight corners is the most challenging part of installing shoe molding. There are three types of joints you will encounter: inside corners, outside corners, and scarf joints (for joining two pieces along a straight wall). Each requires a different cutting technique.

Inside Corners

Inside corners are where two walls meet forming an inward angle. The best technique for inside corners is coping. One piece is cut square and pushed into the corner, and the second piece is coped to fit against the profile of the first. This method accommodates walls that are not perfectly square and produces a tight joint that stays closed over time.

If you prefer to miter inside corners instead of coping, set your miter saw to 45 degrees and cut each piece in opposite directions so they meet. Apply a small bead of wood glue to the miter faces before nailing for a stronger joint. Keep in mind that mitered inside corners may open up as the wood dries.

Outside Corners

Outside corners are where two walls meet forming an outward angle. Both pieces should be cut at 45-degree miters that form a point at the corner. Follow these steps:

  1. Measure to the outside point of the corner
  2. Cut the first piece with a 45-degree miter (long point at the mark)
  3. Cut the second piece with the opposite 45-degree miter
  4. Test fit both pieces — the mitered faces should meet flush at the corner point
  5. Apply wood glue to the miter joint before nailing
  6. Nail both pieces, placing a nail close to the corner on each side to hold the joint tight
  7. If possible, pin the joint together with a small brad nail driven through the point of the corner

Scarf Joints

When a wall is longer than your longest piece of shoe molding, you need to join two pieces together. A scarf joint is the standard method:

  1. Cut the end of the first piece at a 30 to 45-degree angle
  2. Cut the beginning of the second piece at the matching opposite angle
  3. The two angled cuts overlap, creating a long, thin joint that is far less visible than a square butt joint
  4. Apply wood glue to the joint faces and nail through both pieces
  5. Position the scarf joint over a wall stud if possible for a solid nailing surface

More details on splicing pieces together in our splicing guide.

Non-Square Corners: If an inside or outside corner is not 90 degrees, you will need to adjust your miter angle. An inexpensive angle finder tool (also called a protractor or bevel gauge) can measure the exact angle of the corner, then divide that angle by two for your miter saw setting.